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Chef Matas Paulinas highlights the anecdotal dimension of every dish, pointing out the cultural context behind each dish and its impact on contemporary society, emphasizing the importance of quality ingredients and narrative crafting.

Restoring Lithuanian culinary traditions: A revival of the nation's rich food culture, previously threatened by the impact of Soviet occupation.

Chef Matas Paulinas articulates that each dish holds a narrative, encompassing the cultural context...
Chef Matas Paulinas articulates that each dish holds a narrative, encompassing the cultural context behind it and its current cultural significance. According to him, the key is to start with a superior quality product, and then subtly weave a compelling tale within its presentation.

Chef Matas Paulinas highlights the anecdotal dimension of every dish, pointing out the cultural context behind each dish and its impact on contemporary society, emphasizing the importance of quality ingredients and narrative crafting.

In the heart of Vilnius, Lithuania, a new generation of cooks is reclaiming the country's rich culinary heritage, offering a fresh take on traditional dishes. The city's dining scene is buzzing with excitement, as restaurants like Ertlio Namas and Džiaugsmas are leading the way in showcasing the authentic flavours of Lithuania.

Ertlio Namas, run by chef Tomas Rimydis and historian Rimvydas Laužikas, is located in the Old Town of Vilnius. The menu changes every two months and avoids popular ingredients such as potatoes and pork, found in most city restaurants. The goal is to authentically showcase and elevate traditional Lithuanian cuisine.

Šakotis, a traditional Lithuanian 'branch cake' made from butter, egg whites and yolks, flour, sugar, and cream, cooked on a rotating spit, is just one example of the delicious dishes on offer. Ruginė duona, a type of rye bread made without yeast, is another national staple.

Pickling and fermenting are still central to cooking in Lithuania, with cucumbers with honey and curd cheese being a popular childhood taste. Lithuanian families traditionally relied on small-garden produce due to food scarcity during the Soviet occupation, giving rise to creative and flavourful cooking methods.

During the Soviet occupation, the best produce was sent to Moscow, and restaurant dishes were uniform. However, the influence of the Soviet era is lamented by high-profile chef Liutauras Ceprackas, who notes the impact on Lithuanian culture and food.

In recent years, there has been a significant change in Lithuanian cuisine. Raminta, a woman who returned to Vilnius from the United States, has noticed the transformation in the last five years. The city is now home to vibrant food markets like Halés Market, where the older generation sells traditional products alongside millennials selling modern items like nut milk and avocado toast.

For those looking to explore Lithuanian cuisine further, Nineteen18 offers a 13-course tasting menu that emphasizes the story behind each dish. Sweet Root restaurant in Vilnius has a menu subtitled 'A Fairy Tale by Sweet Root' and emphasizes the importance of story and nostalgia in Lithuanian cuisine.

Vilkiné Gastro Fields, a restaurant with its own farm, offers a chance to experience Lithuanian forests and foraging for berries and mushrooms. Fruit wine tasting at Halés Market offers a taste of Lithuanian tradition modernized into exciting wines. Fruit wine in Lithuania is not sticky, sweet, or syrupy, but rather exquisite-tasting alcohol made from berries, fruits, plants, and vegetables.

The city of Kaunas in Lithuania is also experiencing a vibrant cultural resurgence. For travel-related content, follow @audreygillan on social media. To find out more about visiting Vilnius, visit govilnius.lt. Polish airline LOT offers flights to Vilnius from London City Airport for £105 return. Hotel Pacai offers double rooms in Vilnius for £146.

This article was published in the Jan/Feb 2020 issue of Traveller (UK).

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