Harmful working conditions and chemical contamination found in Indian tanneries connected to major international shoe brands
In the bustling Ranipet area of Tamil Nadu, India, a significant portion of the world's biggest shoe brands source their leather. However, this tannery hub is plagued by environmental pollution and labor practices that pose serious health risks to workers.
Environmental Concerns
Many small- to medium-sized tanneries in Ranipet discharge untreated or partially treated effluents into the nearby River Palar, causing severe pollution. Larger companies may have effluent treatment facilities, but enforcement of regulations remains weak, allowing contamination to persist. The Tamil Nadu Pollution Control Board (TNPCB) issues show-cause notices for violations, but tanneries often continue polluting despite regulatory actions. Local environmentalists call for international buyers to demand cleaner production practices to reduce pollution and avoid complicity in environmental harm.
Worker Health and Safety
Workers in Ranipet's tanneries face unsafe conditions and low wages. At least 30% of workers reportedly earn less than the Tamil Nadu state-mandated minimum wage (INR 11,130/month). Workers handle toxic substances such as chromium without protective gear, despite nationwide bans on such practices. Exposure to chemicals used in tanning is linked to serious health risks, including respiratory illnesses and cancers of the lung, bladder, kidney, and pancreas.
Workers often continue laboring even when ill due to financial necessity, creating a cycle of health deterioration and economic vulnerability. Local voices argue that the real issue is a lack of political will, with money being the primary concern.
Regulatory Oversight
Arpita Mukherjee from the Indian Council for Research on International Economic Relations (ICRIER) explains that regulations in the Indian leather sector have historically been shaped by the requirements of clients in Europe and the United States. However, enforcement remains weak, and many workers are unaware of grievance mechanisms linked to the brands they work for, which would be a direct violation of German law.
Germany became the first EU country to implement the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act, requiring human-rights protections and grievance mechanisms across supply chains for companies with at least 1,000 employees. However, Mukherjee is sceptical that the new EU directives will bring about the change needed, citing unclear guidelines and enforcement mechanisms.
Corporate Responsibility
Emma Thomson, from NGO Global Canopy, advocates for corporate sustainability and environmental protection, emphasizing the need for transparency and disclosure of complaints, compliance processes, and suppliers' lists. Berndt Hinzmann, senior policy advisor at the German NGO Inkota, explains that workers do not use existing grievance mechanisms due to fear of negative consequences or backlash.
Tata International, a major firm with tanneries in Tamil Nadu that supply the likes of Deichmann, Gabor, and H&M, is LWG Gold rated but did not respond to questions about workers allegedly being exposed to tannery chemicals for prolonged periods of time. Gabor Shoes did not reply to requests for comment, while Deichmann insisted that its code of conduct ensures respect for workers throughout its supply chain and had not received any "relevant information" through its internal grievance mechanisms.
Community Impact
The pollution from the tanneries has contaminated the water supply, devastating crops and causing widespread health issues in nearby communities. The leather industry in Tamil Nadu is polluting the Palar River, a vital drinking water source for several villages and towns. Mala, a tannery worker in Tamil Nadu, alleges prolonged exposure to tannery chemicals, causing health issues and black patches on her cheeks. The exposure to pollution in the tannery industry is not limited to the factory floor and affects the surrounding environment.
Call for Action
The Ranipet Leather Tannery Allied Labourers Protection Forum calls for fair wages, workplace safety, and access to essential social-security benefits such as health insurance and maternity leave. Local voices argue that the real issue is a lack of political will, with money being the primary concern. To address these issues, international buyers must demand cleaner production practices, and corporations must ensure transparency and enforce grievance mechanisms across their supply chains.
[1] Journalismfund Europe. (n.d.). The Hidden Costs of Your Leather Shoes. Retrieved from https://dialogueearth.org/2021/02/23/the-hidden-costs-of-your-leather-shoes/ [2] Thomson, E. (2022, December 15). The Hidden Costs of Your Leather Shoes. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2022/dec/15/the-hidden-costs-of-your-leather-shoes [3] The Hidden Costs of Your Leather Shoes. (2021, February 23). Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2021/feb/23/the-hidden-costs-of-your-leather-shoes
- The United Nations' Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) aim to ensure clean water and sanitation, and tackling deforestation in Ranipet's leather industry aligns with these goals, as pollution has contaminated the water supply and influenced widespread health issues.
- Sustainability in the industry can be achieved through adoption of cleaner production practices to secure water security, protect the environment, and promote worker health and safety.
- Corporate responsibility extends beyond financial profits to include education on environmental-science and self-development for promoting ethical business practices, ensuring fair wages and workplace safety.
- Engaging in science and technology can provide innovative solutions to combat deforestation, water contamination, and improve health conditions in Ranipet's tanneries.
- Personal-finance and lifestyle choices can contribute to increased demand for products manufactured by corporations that prioritize sustainability, reducing the influence of the casino-and-gambling and general-news sectors on consumer buying habits.
- Environmentalist groups argue that international buyers holding contracts with Ranipet's tanneries should advocate for change, as their financial influence presents an opportunity for driving industry progress in education-and-self-development and corporate responsibility.
- Sports, technology, and general-news media platforms play a crucial role in raising awareness about worker health and safety issues in the industry, sparking activism and furthering the push for safer working conditions.
- Progress in enforcing regulations and improving working conditions can impede the expansion of larger industries such as sports and technology, demanding attention to environmental concerns and corporate responsibility.
- To secure a sustainable future, both consumers and corporations must understand the ripple effects of their choices on the environment, local communities, and global issues, such as labor practices and deforestation in Ranipet's leather industry.
