In her introduction for Calvin Klein, Veronica Leoni adopted a minimalist approach
Veronica Leoni, the new creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, unveiled her first collection for the iconic fashion brand in a minimalist showspace at 205 West 39th Street in New York. The event was attended by industry veterans and Calvin Klein's perennial muses, Kate Moss and Christy Turlington, as well as Calvin Klein himself and his ex-wife, the photographer Kelly Rector.
Leoni's collection was a nod to the essence of Klein's vision, aiming to redefine femininity and masculinity in today's landscape, while keeping the idea of American beauty in its freshest and purest form. The collection was referred to as a '24/7 wardrobe', offering versatile pieces that could transition seamlessly from day to night.
Voluminous draped jersey dresses were featured towards the end of the show, adding a touch of elegance to the collection. The square-toed pump and slipper, reminiscent of a 1999 Calvin Klein collection, was a notable element, adding a retro touch to the modern designs.
The collection also included crisp black tailoring, bonded business overcoats, shrunken wool sweaters, and baggy jeans, showcasing Leoni's influence with her collections inspired by New Yorkers and reimagining workwear styles. Details like clasping shut of a coat with the hand, a decolletage-bearing sweetheart neckline, and flushes of hot pink suggested a more tender kind of intimacy.
Leoni expressed pride in Calvin Klein feeling at home again, and mentioned that he was happy to have found a new coat to buy. Calvin Klein, known as the godfather of American minimalism, watched the show with a sense of approval, no doubt feeling the echoes of his own vision in Leoni's designs.
Whether Leoni's collection had the necessary frisson of difference to retain attention over an upcoming month of shows is uncertain. However, her previous experience working at The Row, Celine, Jil Sander, Moncler, and her own label Quira, which was nominated for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers in 2023, speaks volumes about her design prowess.
Leoni's goal with the collection was to redefine femininity and masculinity in the landscape of today, keeping in mind the idea of American beauty in its freshest and purest form. The showspace for her first collection as creative director was unadorned, with the Calvin Klein logo written across the carpet, setting the stage for a clean and minimalist presentation. The collection was a promising start for Leoni, and we look forward to seeing what she has in store for the future of Calvin Klein Collection.
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