Investigating the preservation of African-American culture through academic pursuits, as explained by PhD candidate, Ndhenry
In the realm of creative magazines, the Black Cover Archive (bC Archive) stands as a testament to the significant strides made in showcasing Black representation. Founded by PhD researcher ndhenry in 2018, the bC Archive is a collection of cover stars from global creative magazines, with a focus on archiving blackness.
Vanley Burke, a renowned photographer, significantly inspired the inception of the bC Archive. Burke's work, which captures the community in which ndhenry grew up in Handsworth, Birmingham, posed the question "In what ways can we archive blackness?" This question directed the focus of the bC Archive, leading to its establishment.
The bC Archive has been instrumental in documenting Black representation in various creative magazines. For instance, Liz Johnson Artur photographed model Michaela Cole for Garage Magazine, Issue 19, September 2020, while Lawrence Agyei captured model Ana Flávia for Studio Magazine, Fashion, Issue 3 AW 2021/22.
Three current exhibitions featuring the work of Vanley Burke are taking place: "Blood & Fire: Our Journey Through Vanley Burke's History" at the Soho House Museum, Birmingham; "Between Two Worlds" at the V&A South Kensington; and "The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion" at Somerset House, London. These exhibitions serve as a testament to Burke's impact on the documentation of Black representation.
The bC Archive also acknowledges historical turning points in the increase of Black covers in mainstream spaces. Three pivotal moments include the Civil Rights Act of 1964, Obama's presidency (2009 to 2017), and Black Lives Matter in 2020. One of the most significant historical turning points is Dario Calmese becoming the first Black person to photograph a cover for Vanity Fair, featuring Viola Davis for the July/August 2020 issue.
Calmese's work is not the only one celebrated by the bC Archive. Nadine Ijewere, Campbell Addy, Tyler Mitchell, and Rafael Pavarotti are Black photographers whose work the founder of the bC Archive admires. Their contributions to the representation of Black individuals in creative magazines are undeniable.
The bC Archive also extends its admiration to other platforms that archive blackness, such as Georgian Diaspora, Black Fashion Archive, Black Beauty Archives, Archive Alive, Black Archives, Black Magazine Covers, and the work of photographer and archivist Vanley Burke.
In addition to recognising historical moments and contemporary contributions, the bC Archive also looks towards the future. ndhenry, the founder, is currently working on an exhibition to share the collection and create conversations about the social and political-cultural landscape of blackness.
ndhenry's morning routine is as inspiring as their work. They have been significantly impacted by Robin Sharma's book "The 5 AM Club: Own Your Morning. Elevate Your Life". The Book of Proverbs (Hebrew Bible) is another source of inspiration, serving as a book ndhenry uses for daily meditation.
The discussion that led to the creation of the bC Archive took place at Barber Walker's 2016 visual art exhibition "Shock and Awe". The Numéro Berlin Issue 6 Spring/Summer 2019 cover, photographed by Dario Calmese, features models Riley Montana, Taelor Thein, Awar Mou, Madisin Rian, Carissa Pinkston.
The bC Archive's work is admired by various organizations and individuals, including the Initiative Schwarze Menschen in Deutschland (ISD), a prominent Black German advocacy group focused on issues of colonial history and Black experiences in Germany. Historical archives such as the Digital Namibian Archive and various Africanist scholar projects that document African histories and cultures also share overlapping goals in preserving and honoring Black histories and experiences. Additionally, movements like the African Reparations Movement (ARM) in the UK, which engage with the legacies of colonialism and slavery, also share these goals.
ndhenry's work is not limited to the bC Archive. They recently bought the book "Fire Rush" by Jacqueline Crooks. "All About Love: New Visions" by bell hooks is a book that ndhenry feels tells them something new every time they read it.
The Black Cover Archive continues to be a beacon of Black representation in creative magazines, inspiring and educating its audience about the rich and diverse history of Black individuals in the media landscape.
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