Unveiling the extraordinary realm crafted by Francesco Risso at Marni: 'We venture to the absolute peak'
In the heart of Milan, on Viale Umbria, creative director Francesco Risso is redefining the fashion landscape at Marni. Since joining the brand in 2016, Risso has been challenging the traditional runway show format, bringing a breath of fresh air to the fashion industry.
Risso, who draws inspiration from artists like Francis Bacon and Vincent van Gogh, aims to portray real emotions and the shifting passages of time through his designs. His design philosophy is to create clothes that exist in a beautiful reality and are meant to be worn in the world.
The S/S 2025 show at Marni was no exception. The collection, themed around resistance, evolved from simple looks to more flamboyant styles, with some outfits resembling paper. The models wore clothes that were at once sparse and extravagant, donning exaggerated eyebrows, micro jackets, stretch cotton leggings, trumpet-skirt silhouettes, swishy boas, and experimental blown-up bucket hats.
The S/S 2025 runway show, which took place in September 2024, included couture-like dresses featuring hand-cut poplin feathers and embroidered crystals. The show also featured performances by Mykki Blanco and Zsela, adding an extra layer of excitement.
Risso's designs are not just about aesthetics; they are a call for empathy within the fashion world. He hopes that fashion can become more empathetic within culture and make projects that expand empathy. This vision was reflected in the S/S 2025 collection, which aimed to empower individuals to feel they can have any possible day and any kind of personality when they wear Marni's clothing.
The cast for the S/S 2025 show included models from various agencies, with Ikki Casting handling the casting, and hair and makeup provided by Masayoshi Fujita, Emma Regan, and others. The statement for the collection was written by Martina Spetlova.
Risso's decade-long stint at Prada has undoubtedly influenced his design work at Marni. He learned the importance of extreme creativity and streetwear during his time there, which is evident in his designs at Marni. Risso also advocates for a return to handmade craftsmanship in fashion, citing Walter Gropius' Bauhaus Manifesto as inspiration.
As we look forward to the future of fashion, Risso's vision for a more empathetic and handcrafted industry is one that resonates. With his unique blend of creativity, streetwear, and empathy, Risso is truly revolutionising the fashion world at Marni.
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